Breakfast at Hotel de Paris Estoril

Freshly baked loaves of bread.

Continuing the exploration of September 1930, Lisbon: Aleister Crowley’s lost diary of his Portuguese trip, we read: “Wed[nesday] [September] 3 [1930]. Moved to Hotel de Paris Estoril 17 m[etres] on sea. A perfect plage: French, but dignified. The climate seems to be what the Riviera pretends to have, and hasn’t.”

According to information available online, the Hotel de Paris in Estoril offers a complimentary breakfast package, which would consist of fresh bread, with butter, ham, cheese or fruit preserves, accompanied with coffee, milk, tea or hot chocolate.

Pão de Bico (Portuguese Bread)Freshly baked loaves of bread.

  • 2 cups bread flour
  • 1/8 cup rye flour
  • 1 ¼ cup spring water
  • ¾ cup natural starter
  • ¾ tsp sea salt

In a large bowl add the 2 flours and water and mix together – this will be rather sticky and wet. Let this sit for a minimum of 20 minutes.

Next, add the salt and the starter and mix this together.

Cover and let sit 8-10 hours.

Note: If it is very warm, let the covered bowl sit in the warm place for 3-4 hours and then transfer the bowl to the fridge to slow it down.

In the morning, pour the dough out onto a floured board.

Divide the dough into 2 equal portions

With floured hands – dust the surface of the dough and form it into a rectangle shape. Fold one long edge into the middle and gently use your fingertips to pinch it into the other layer of dough.

Fold the other edge over, turn with the seam side down and gently shape the dough into an almond shape.

Place the shaped dough onto a floured cloth. A couche (pronounced koosh) or proofing cloth can be used on which to proof dough, or it can be used to cover the dough.

Do the same with the other piece of dough and set it onto the cloth, pinching up the cloth between the loaves. Cover and let sit for 1 hour in a warm place.

Dust the tops with either white flour or white rice flour

Use a sharp knife razor to score down the long way.

Preheat oven to 425°F. For best results, bake on a pizza stone and place a tray with water on the bottom oven rack. Bake for about 25 minutes; the loaves should be golden brown.

Wait at least 20 minutes before cutting into the bread.

Adapted from


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